Manifesto of the ethereal elegance and sophistication without artifices, it is the basic “off trend” par excellence. We are talking about the shoe that is able to embody the epitome of the perfect gentleman: the Oxford shoe. Thanks to its glamorous silhouette, it is an essentail accessory in the wardrobe of those who love to tell about themselves through a suggestive narrative.

Don't you know it, yet? Or do you simply want more details? In this guide we will reveal every aspect of the Oxford: from its history to the distinctive features that make it unique, up to advices on how and when wear it to transform your every step into an experience of pure class.

From university to the feet of Cary Grant: a myth is born

Exterior facade of Christ Church University, Oxford

If you want to speak about a specific topic consciously and with fluency you have to know its roots. This is the reason why we invite you to read this story, before going through the folds of style. We are in the heart of aristocratic Victorian Oxfordshire of the 19th century, a patch of land rich in refinement and tradition, where majestic maisons and green lawns follow one another in a tableau of nobility and culture.

In these evoquing atmospheres, an icon of style finds the proper ground to rise and forge the men fashion for generations: the Oxford shoe. It had the honour to have made its appearence in the cradle of knowledge reserved for the british élite: the University of Oxford. In those classrooms it became the favortite choice of students and teachers, so much so it earned the nickname of “Oxonian Shoe”. It represented a rebellious alternative to the rigid boots of that period, offering a more comfortable and versataile solution to the man dealing with his everyday life.

The change arrived when Mr. Joseph Sparkes Hall in the “The New Monthly Magazine” wrote about a certain “Oxford shoe” a man shoe with front lacing and 3 or 4 eyelets. From now on,as in every fashion “trickle down”, Oxford shoes reached the masses and became even more popular through the so called “stardom” phenomenon. When famous movie icons, like Cary Grant and Fred Astaire, began to wear them for their TV performances, it marked the final act of a revolution that gave these shoes an immortal prestige i mass culture.

All over the years, Oxfords evolved in terms of style.. The first change was the replacement of buttons with shoe-laces. Later other variations were added, such as decorations on the toe and the use of other types of leather, such as brushed, lacquered and suede. All this contributed significantly to enriching their appeal, defining the design of the Oxford as we know it today, consolidating their status as a masterpiece of formal footwear..

Oxford shoes: distintive features

Side detail of the lacing of an oxford-style lace-up

Wearing an Oxford isn't just a matter of fashion, it's a silent yet powerful statement of uncompromising taste. Versatile shoes with a British charm, which have contaminated the aesthetic codes of the past, till to redefine contemporary elegance. Dedicated to the man who appreciates the timeless classic, Oxfords are the ally that blends harmoniously with every piece of his wardrobe They can be immediately recognized by three main features:

1. Closed construction: this means that the gambit, that is the back part of the upper that ends with the lacing, is straight sewn under the vamp, that is the front part of the upper, without visible overlaps or openings on the side of the shoe. In this way, the shoe goes all around the foot like a frame, creating a clear profile that fits perfectly on any occasion.
2. Lace fastening: there is a lacing that is defined “tight” because of the tactical positioning of the gambits.
3. Decoration: an Oxford offers many options, from a completely smooth upper to more elaborated variants, such as those ones with “brogue”, which are small decorative perforations on the upper. Full brogue or wingtip models, with stitching extended along the length of the upper, add a touch of style to any outfit.

Oxford style lacing on the left while on the right you can see the swallow tail decorations and the flower on the toe

Oxford vs Derby: details in comparison

It's not easy to navigate in the wide universe of men's shoes. Although the range of options is smaller than the women's one, you have to pay more attention to detail in order to quickly identify them. In particular, when we talk about the world of classic shoes, many models seem similar to each other. In this context, even Oxfords and Derbys look alike, because they have a common element: they both belong to the macro-category of lace-ups, that is they are equipped with laces. Despite this affinity there are peculiarities between them that reflect differences in aesthetics and functionality.

• Oxford has a closed construction with the gambits sewn under the mask. This feature makes it sutable for formal context, where the outfit has to be impeccable. It has a thin and sober line, perfect for those ones looking for a classy touch without excess;
• Derby has a open construction with gambits sewn over the mask and overlapped on it. The gambits, once laced, wrap around the foot's instep and can be separated along the entire length. This model is suitable for those one with high instep and give to the outfit a more casual look. They are the right choice for informal context, without sacrifying the style. Their sartorial decorations of the uppers add personality and dynamism to every outfit.

So, we can state that the choice between an Oxford and a Derby depends from your preferences and the events you have to attend. While an Oxford is characterized by a timeless soul, a Derby offers a more modern twist.

How to wear an Oxford: three tips to follow

Black Francesina Liverpool, English style inspired by tradition

The choice to wear an Oxford is somethng that goes beyond the simple act of dressing: it is a conscious choice that states your belonging to a specific stylistic rank. This shoe conveys a certain sublimated aura that spread all over a deep sens of grace and “distance”, letting the owner be inaccessible and at the same time irresistible. It isn't superficiality, but an attempt to comunicate a long lasting sensation of charme. If you want to break up every hesitation and buy a great pair Oxford follow these three tips:

1. Elegance without efforts - there is a golden rule that shows the way to follow in choosing the shoe: grandeur is inversely proportional to a man's style. It would be better to follow the tip “less is best”, otherwise overdoing the volumes immediately brings you to the edge of kitsch. An Oxford appears so descreet because it dresses the foot creating the illusion of seeing it smaller. This not influences the shoe size. Oxfords must fit like a second skin following the foot contouring, without constriction. It's up to you to find the right equilibrium between form and functionality, ensuring a pleasing appearence in every occasion.
2. Precision in details - Oxfords need accurancy when lacing. You need to be carefull while lacing your shoes, both to ensure the well-being of the foot and to outline a linear profile, without creating those annoying creases on the upper that appear when the lacing is too tight. Every detail, from the impeccable alignment of the laces to the perfectly calibrated tension, is essential to maintaining the silhouette of the shoe. This says a lot about you and your “aesthetic awareness”. It reflects your attention to details.
3. Quality of materials - the real difference between an ordinary Oxford and an excellent one is the quality of raw materials. Choosing fine leathers, artisan stitchings and distinctive finishes not only improve the durability of your shoe but also enhance its appearence. Buying high-quality shoes means investing in comfort, style and durability. Franceschetti Oxfords, for example, are made with selected and handcrafted leathers: they offer a good fit and combine design and practicality in a balanced way.

When to wear an Oxford: uses and style occasions

The elegance of the black Francesina Savona it's perfect for the chicest moments

Thanks to their linearity, Oxfords are the ideal shoes for many occasions, as long as you know how to combine them correctly. They adapt to multiple contexts and styles. An Oxford is a must-have, able to elevate the garnments you already have in your wardrobe. Let's see when wear them.

1. Formal events: the winning choice

Nothing conveys sophistication than a pair of Oxford in a shiny black calf leather. They are ideal for weddings, celebrations and grande-soirées, where an impeccable attire is a must. Their tapered shape gives a sober look and they are fantastic for completing a tailored suit. Matched with a dark suit, a tailored white shirt and a solid-colour tie, Oxfords become the final touch that gives authority and personality to your outfit.

2. Casual chic: refined nonchalance

Oxfords can easily be paired with a look casual-chic. Imagine an Oxford in Suede under a slim-fit jeans and a well done shirt: here you have a sharp yet relaxed look, perfect for an evening cocktail or a weekend in the city. Add a light blazer and you've got a perfect balance between practicality and class. This proves that Oxfords can be your ally in achieving effortless elegance.

3. Suitable for every single style

Choosing the right style and color of Oxford shoes gives you the chance to adapt them to any personal style. An Oxford in light brown leather, for example, can be paired with beige chinos and a striped shirt for a fresh and modern spring look. For those who prefer a more daring approach, Oxfords in brighter colors or with brogue details can add a touch of originality: dedicated to those who follow trends such as boho chic.

Franceschetti Oxfords: craftsmanship at your feet

Oxford shoes are like a blank canvas, ready to adapt to your vision of fashion. Whether you are attending an important event or want to make your daily appearance more pleasant, with Franceschetti Oxfords you will always hit the mark! By wearing Franceschetti Oxfords you are choosing to wear Italian artisan quality. It is not just a matter of exteriority, but also a long lasting well-being that resists the passing of the hours and accompanies you wherever you go. Franceschetti has 100 years of history in shoe manufacturing and is a guarantee of a well-designed and manufactured product. Here are some models that deserve particular attention:

• Classic Oxford in black calf leather for ceremonies, gala events and occasions with a strict dress code – with this traditional Oxford, you will never be wrong. This shoe stands out for its undeniable elegance and leather quality. For your wedding day you can choose Francesina Imperia our whole cut Oxford in fine calfskin, offered with a fantastic glass finish. It is the ideal completion of your tuxedo, tailcoat or tailored suit. For a gala evening, you can opt for the Francesina Savona or Francesina Perugia.
• Leather Oxford brogues in woodland shades (brown or green) for semi-formal events or office outfits - this shoe adds a touch of character and matches well with shades of blue and gray. With our Nancy you will shout loud charisma and nonchalance in your business meetings. With Nantes or Rouen you will enhance the most original and creative combinations in a boho and casual-chic key.
• Blue leather Oxfords - These are a bold and modern choice, perfect for those who want to stand out. This leather's color adds an interesting accent, ideal for minimal or evening outifits. For example, the Perfect Style s a very good option for the groom's best man. You will be able to express yourself very well in your role without sacrificing originality - thanks to the typical "brogueing"- or stealing the scene.

Oxford shoes are not a mere purchase. They are a real investment to make every combinations special and enjoy the quality of a valuable shoe. With their sober and refined design, you will wear a symbol that goes beyond the fashions of the moment and has its roots in the heart of haute couture. Whatever your destination, these shoes are your passport to unparalleled elegance. Each pair of Franceschetti Oxfords is designed to shine on every occasion. We are sure that this guide has enlightened you on all the possibilities offered by the Oxford, because wearing them is simply Art.