Wearing a lace-up

The pleasure of elegance combined with self-affirmation: this is the lace up. Its vibes recall to the mind a certain old fashioned seduction and at the same time express the charming masculinity of the old Hollywood's stars. A classic that resists to passing trends and continues to impose itself, thanks to innovations to which it has been subjected over the years and allowed it to improve, both in walking and comfort.

You are surely aware of the fact that a lace-up is a key piece. Every man should have at least one pair of lace-up in its shoe rack, because it is a “trompe-l'oeil” accessory: it deceives the eye by elevating the look in a total way, even wearing a modest dress. But how to combine them and what are the most suitable use opportunities? We explain it in this article!
First, however, let's take a small step back, discovering its history and the main characteristics and types.

The lace-up genesis: how a style icon is born

The word “string” comes from the latin verb “stringere”: it recalls to the mind the action to approach two parts of an object with the intent of tightening them. Then, the common language has attributed to this verb the specific action of closing shoes with strings. To tell greatly simply the concept, we could say that lace-up shoes are those that have laces, but we will delve deeper into the concept later on.

Going back in time, we find traces, albeit embryonic, of lace-ups in the Bronze Age. Ötzi, the Similaun mummy, was found wearing leather shoes closed by laces of the same material.

Let's now jump to the modern era, where we have two different versions of how things happened. The first one states that in the 19th century Oxford students wore knee-high boots. Over the years, these boots were shortened until reaching the medium ankle boot: we are in 1825 and this boot took the name of Oxonian. It has no laces but a side button closure. The real evolution came up in 1846 thanks to Joseph Sparkes who was the first to talk about of “oxford shoes” in “The New Monthly Magazine”, describing it as a shoe with front lacing with 3 or 4 eyelets.

The second possible version of the facts, instead, is set in Balmoral castle, where Prince Albert (Queen Victoria's husband) wore lace-up boots for hunting. At that time, it was unusual for men to use bands because they were considered an accessory reserved exclusively for women.

In the 20th century Oxfords became a versatile shoe, for men and women, worn in various contexts, both elegant and more sporty. The frequency of use required experimentations, so it was produced in various combinations, even two-tone. Nowadays the Oxford and the lace-ups in general can be intended as a status: a bridge between past and future, the stylish imprint of a classy person.

Features of men's lace-ups

Our Polacco Mons embodies all the characteristics of an excellent lace-up shoe.

The self confident man, sure of his daily choices, who never misses a step, put-on lace-up shoes as if it were the most natural action in the world, there is no doubt about that. And this is why the aesthetic and functional features are the reason for the success of this shoe.

Lace-ups are a macro-category which include various types of footwear. In addtition to what we have previous said about laces, they present further distinctive parameters that change depending on models:

• Lacing: there are two types of lacing. The narrow one, named “oxford”, is the one with the quarters sewn under the mask. The other one, wider, is named “derby” and has the quarters free. The shoe-laces can be more or less thin, it depends on the stylist's creativity;
• Eyelets: they go on pair and usually are from 3 to 5 each shoe;
• Heel height: standard heels for lace-ups are usually between 1 and 5 cm. (for more modern versions or platform);
• Height behind the heel: here the shoe can be more or less high, depending on the model. On this basis, we talk about of a flat shoe if the height is under the ankle, of an ankle-boot if it is above it and of a boot if it covers the calf of the leg;
• Raw materials: calf, lack and suede are the main textures that define a quality lace-up shoe;
• Decorations: we can find a totally smooth upper without any detail or a brogue one, i.e. those adorned with small decorative perforations. We talk about “full brogue” or “wingtip” when these ornamental perforations extend over the entire shoe;

The most popular lace-up models: a guide to distinguish them

We know how laborious it can be to navigate the fantastic world of shoes, especially if you don't have an eye "trained" to recognize their peculiarities. This is why we want to make your task easier. Let's discover the 3+1 most popular lace-up models.

1. Oxford

They are the “non plus ultra“ of the perfect gentleman who highlights his taste through the research for detail. The quarter – that is the part of the upper that ends in the lacing - is sewn under the mask – that is the front of the upper. They are suitable for gala events or those evenings in which you wear tuxedos or tailcoats though it's not so unusual to find them matched with more informal outfits as a reverence sign, typical of those who debut in society with style. Pay attention: if you wear an Oxford “full brogue” be carefull not to combine it with formal suits.

Our Francesina Nantes is an expression of elegance and refinement

2. Derby

An evergreen that tastes of certainty. With a pair of Derby, you can never go wrong. The lacing is open and its fitting is ideal for those men with high instep or wide plant. In France it is used to place four or six eyelets for laces to make the shape of foot longer. In England the Wingtip Blucher is preferred, slightly relaxed with the typical wingtip decoration on the tip.

An evergreen of style and comfort: our Derby Conwy

3. Boot

Ankle boot have a wider instep than an oxford and have a front open lacing with two or three pairs of eyelets. They have a round toe and a slim outsole in leather or rubber. The most wanted is the Suede version which envelops the foot like a sort of “slipper” and emphasizes its comfort. Depending on the material with which they are produced, they can be combined with the easiest streetwear or be a stand-out alternative if matched with reverential suits.

Among the lace-up shoe models that we recommend we have Polacco Milford

+1. Ankle Boot

This is our “+1” because it doesn't fall within the classic paradigms of lace-ups strictly intended. It is an ankle boot embellished with multiple eyelets.. Some may also feature a loop or metal hooks. They are a versatile choice as they are intended for those who mix style and practicality. The ideal use is intended as a completion of casual outfits. In the captoe version they can match even with more serious outfits, leaving a neo-grunge imprint to the look.

Versatility, practicality and style: we find all this in our Polacco Livigno

The Franceschetti lace-up: the epitome of style

The golden rule that states the real value of each pair of shoe is the choice of raw materials. It is important to select high quality materials that have followed an appropriate production cycle till the end.

SThe Franceschetti philosophy of Made in Italy is a winning strategy since four generations. It aims to enhance the renowned footwear tradition in our Country.
In contrast with the most part of the sector's brands, Franceschetti produces in Italy with raw materials carefully selected and, above all, it does it with love. This is why his lace-ups are so special: wearing them will let you experience the emotion of an incredible journey, that brings with itself a remarkable distinctive cultural baggage. Do you know which model to choose? We have thought three different occasions and the outfits connected to become the absolute protagonist.

Corporate dinner: the ideal outfit

It's a completely freetime context, we can focus on a smart-casual look hen you have to meet your colleagues and managers at company dinners. Some of these are real gala events.

The undaunted man, who never misses a beat, for these events wears clothes unconventional-chic. We are talking about a black tuxedo in a Business Attire key, in corduroy or in a revisited streetwear mood with garnments, reminescent of trucker jackets, like the one worn by Lakeith Stanfield at Oscar 2021 ceremony, made by Saint Laurent. The structure of the material and its rigidity will give a formal appearence but the details will make the difference, letting you stand out from the crowd. A white shirt custom made is a must, sober accessories will do the rest. The only sparkle piece can be a bold watch with essential design. For this outfit our oxford Perugia in black calf leather with captoe. is the ideal completion. You will be the ideal representation of the italian charm: absolute, perfect, cosmopolite. Undoubtely a great success.

City dress code: for a walking or a cool cocktail with friends

It's a completely freetime context, we can focus on a smart-casual look with a light touch of eccentricity. The choice is a relaxed shirt in linen or popeline, that gives a touch of freshness and a fluid trousers in drill or a rock garment such as a faded denim with metal rivets: dedicated to those ones that don't like half measures. To complete the look ,choose our Derby Lipsia with moccasin stitching in suede color chocolate. and a pair of aviator glasses with slightly shaded lens. This is the perfect look to feel yourself a little dandy and a little bohémien.

Office mood: office life but with determination

Sitting at the desk in your office, we imagine you wearing a polo shirt in cotton piqué or a shirt with american collar to be matched with a regular check trousers with straight leg. For this outfitwe suggest you our Polacco Bremen with moccasin stitching in Suede color mustard. They will create an unexpected combination, typical of a true creative. Add a square tortoiseshell acetate glasses as a final touch.

You are now aware that, wherever you want to go, Franceschetti lace-ups are a great traveling companion. An high quality shoe, handcrafted with fine and classic raw materials and with a distinctive and modern twist.

Article written by Alessia Capo