Who is the dandy man?
The New dandy is the icon that embodies the values of luxury, refined elegance and style. He is a man attentive to detail, who makes refinement his lifestyle. The dandy Franceschetti loves to amaze, certainly not for an over the top eccentricity, but for the extreme attention to detail; he follows fashion and its trends without overdoing it and falling into exaggeration. The shoes he prefers are the classic ones, but with an avant-garde design, made with high quality materials.
The black oxford shoe with toe in patinated calfskin is a must-have, ideal for elegant appointments such as evenings at the theater or gala dinners.
Oscar Wilde, Charles Baudelaire and Gabriele D'Annunzio with their respective works
Dandyism was born in England in the 19th century and then it spread to the rest of Europe. The exponents of this movement are intellectuals who love the unexpected and move against the rules, but at the same time they respect some of them and dictate new ones, creating a lifestyle of their own. The dandy dares, reinterprets and amazes in everyday life, which lives like a work of art, and in the fashion he influences with his continuous search for beauty, refinement and eccentricity. His taste is guided by an inordinate passion for luxury. The dresses with sophisticated and particular cuts are in precious fabrics. The dandy takes extreme care of his physical appearance and maximum dedication to the environment in which he lives, where he loves to surround himself with luxury and precious objects. Main exponents of the literary movement are Oscar Wilde, Baudelaire and D'Annunzio. The first, with the novel The Portrait of Dorian Gray, represents the phase of decadence; the second, defined as a cursed poet with the collection "The flowers of evil", contaminates dandyism with French romanticism; the third with the novel "Il Piacere" is the pure expression of Italian dandyism and lives surrounded by luxury and possessions.
The contemporary new dandy
Even today the myth of the dandy continues to have great charm. However, he is interpreted as a man who loves fashion and who is always looking for style details that make him different from the crowd, both in clothing and accessories. The new dandy likes elegant shoes, handcrafted blake rapid-stitched shoes with fine leather uppers and leather soles. Oxfords and derbies dressed in two-tone calfskin are the "extravagant" accessory for those who love to be daring while remaining refined and elegant. If you feel at least a little like a contemporary dandy, you can enjoy reading the book “I am Dandy. The Return of the Elegant Gentleman” that will immerse you in a lifestyle of luxury and refinement.
Dandy style and sartorial style
Example of the creation of a tailored suit: from the cut of the fabric to the choice of buttons
Fashion is cyclical, made up of ebbs and flows, of trends that come, go and come back. The sartorial style, in reality, has never been put in the drawer, but is currently living a new life. The single-breasted suit is its icon; the fabrics and colors make it suitable for various occasions, from the more formal to the less conventional ones. Worsted wool, cashmere or flannel in grey, blue, black or in shades of brown, then solid color or pinstripe are the different possibilities for the various situations. But it is the shoe, for the new dandy of modern times, that gives personality to a suit. A leather derby is suitable for a not too demanding circumstance, a patinated oxford gives that chic touch of exclusivity, a beatle makes the outfit fresher despite its sobriety.
Here are the details that a true gentleman observes before choosing his suit:
- Buttons must be attached by hand;
- The buttonholes must be hand embroidered: those on the sleeves must be really cut and openable;
- The lapels are of medium width;
- The pockets are cut and finished with flaps;
- The back pocket of the trousers is welt cut while the side one is oblique;
- For the day, the trousers have a 4.5 cm turn-up, better without for the evening;
- The lower edge of the jacket must enter the folded hand.
Slim or tailored suit? Which is the most suitable for the new dandy?
Both options may be correct, depending on your line and your ideal fit. Slim indicates that taste for narrow and short-sleeved jackets, tight-fitting and ankle-length trousers. While this fit follows the body showing the efforts made in the gym to look your best, it also highlights even the smallest flaws. Wearing a perfect 48 and being tall and slim is the necessary prerequisite. Otherwise, it is better to choose a looser fit or contact a good tailor who knows how to make the most of the silhouette, satisfying the desire to keep up with the times without highlighting the weak points. The new dandy knows it well: the truly beautiful suit must fit perfectly…
Handcrafted classic shoes, the essential accessory in the New Dandy's wardrobe
Classic handcrafted shoes are certainly an element that attracts the attention of the new dandy.
While the oxford is the most chic and refined option, the derby shoe is always classic but less formal. A notable alternative is the loafer; the most sophisticated are in patent leather, with a double buckle or smooth, hand-painted.
The choice of shoes is of fundamental importance: they are the substantial detail to make the new dandy's outfit totally spot on.
Surely embodying the perfect contemporary new dandy style is not an easy goal today, but you always remember that class and elegance are innate qualities.