Pitti Uomo 90: The exhibition’s history and figures
Pitti gets to 90! That is right! Since February 1972, the year of Pitti Uomo’s first exhibition at the Hotel Villa Medici in Florence, and the one that will be held from 14 to 17 June, there have been 90 editions. It is a substantial milestone for what has become one of the most important shows for Men’s fashion and emerging trends in the world. Things have changed over the years: there were 43 displays, 526 buyers of which 98 international in the first edition; what is about to go on show now, on the other hand, at Fortezza da Basso, has 1,200 collections and an expected 20,000 buyers of which 8,200 international. These figures testify the show’s evolution and a world that grows and evolves in every season, aiming for quality, research, and internationalisation. These figures have a symbolic importance such to become the theme of this Pitti Lucky Numbers edition.
So the aesthetic and graphical characteristics of numbers in fashion will be discussed at Pitti Uomo 90. Fortezza da Basso will be invaded by numbers, the same numbers that mysteriously follow us through our lives, marking its milestones.
The set’s design will be made by the architect Oliviero Baldini. Alongside the main theme of Pitti Uomo 90 there will be other projects: Rolling Stone with Wall of Fame will set up a mural with the 90 numbers of the Smorfia Napoletana (a sort of dictionary where each word of a person, object or animal is represented by a number from 1 to 90); the magazine Undici with “The Epic of Numbers” will make 11 sculptures dedicated to the shirts of players that have written football history; the magazine Studio with 4X4= 2016 will invite four fashion journalists to express themselves on the concept of “new classic”.
Pitti Uomo 90: a calendar that is rich in events
Pitti Immagine Uomo is a synonym for special events. Amongst these events there is the evening of Centro di Firenze (Centre of Florence) for Italian fashion, a pre-opening that doubles as a welcome event for the Pitti Uomo international community. There will be a photographic exhibition of Karl Lagerfeld’s career: Visions of Fashion; Raf Simons’ fashion show, one of the greatest innovators of modern fashion; Menswear Guest Designer for this edition is Gosha Rubchinskiy who conjugates Post-Soviet Russian youth’s cultural aesthetics with hints of sportswear and suggestions from the world of photography and cinema. Cartier, from inside a fifteenth century building, will present its Drive de Cartier men’s watch for the both elegant and independent man. There will be also Pitti Italics, the programme that supports emerging Italian fashion designers, and this year it will be represented by Fausto Puglisi and Lucio Vanotti. And further still, Make, the project that looks at new makers as a generation that aims to rediscover authentic craftsmanship, made up of tiny, great details of styling.
So, what will be on display is an exhibition of great numbers … all we need to do is to start its countdown to discover all the news of Pitti Uomo 90, extraordinary incubator of creativity in the fashion system.
Pitti Uomo 90: the Franceschetti collection for spring-summer 2017
The passion for a well made item, handed down from father to son, combines ancient knowhow and innovation. Franceschetti’s philosophy wants to create “craftsman-made avant-garde” shoes, putting handmade craftsmanship alongside research and new design.
The mood of Franceschetti collection for the SS17 is the new dandy one, for the modern-day gentlemen who love tailor-made suits and hand-made shoes, who understand the quality in materials and craftsmanship and are careful to the details that make the difference. This product line has many models which are alive and timeless classics.
The Blake Rapid Flex, stitching method which is used in the fresher and younger part of the collection, joins the quality of Blake Rapid system and its resistance to the sole’s flexibility, deleting the rigidity of the traditional method. Calfskin or horse leather makes the shoe rich in quality, exclusive and long-lasting. Other materials are bufalo leather with a wrinkled effect and suede. These last models have the soles with the edges set in natural leather color. Colours are black, dark brown and bordeaux for horse and calfskin leather. The ones in bufalo leather are in many hues of brown, blue and white. The ones in suede are in natural colours. The models are oxford shoes with toe-cap, smooth derby, double buckle and Beatle boots.
The Luxury Handpainted product line has models that range from the extreme classic to casual. Finely hand-painted with a brush, applying different tones of colours, it uses leathers technically defined “crust”, which are naturally coloured calfskins dyed accurately by hand, with enormous precision and craftsmanship.
In today’s world, where a man is constantly on the move and has to look his best in every situation, there’s the need for a beautiful, impeccable yet functional shoe. The combination of styles commands the man’s wardrobe: the hybrid solution is the result. The modern classic fashion is made of style and functionality. The Franceschetti collection dresses the businessman both at work and in his free time. The mix of elegance and sportswear, of formality and activeness, renews the wardrobe of today’s man, which is already dominated by crossovers. The ability to mix tells about modern man and his style.
So hand-dyed calfskin is used for many types of shoe, from the lace-up ones with leather soles to the others with EVA soles until the rubber sneakers. From extreme classic to casual chic. The shoe’s evolution reflects the life and commitments of the modern man.
Verve and energy for the Pi50 project. The EVA sole gives the shoe comfort and exclusivity. The leathers are bi-coloured hand-dyed calfskins. Models are loafer with fringes, English-style Derby, loafer with tassels. Colours range from blue to red, brown to dark brown and green. There is also a particular fabric Derby shoe with toe-cap.
Lastly, the Franceschetti TheNewDandy line, which best embodies the new dandy mood. Double buckles and slippers are the dominant models, but there are also oxford and derby shoes. The combination of calf leather and suede, smooth or with perforations, gives that sophisticated originality so loved by the modern gentleman. The calf leather version is unmissable. The one hand-dyed calfskin is particularly energetic. Colours range from brown to blue and grey. Are all sober and refined colours to show off in any occasion to be always impeccable.
A multifaceted collection to satisfy with class any modern dandy’s need.